What are you and your sweetheart doing for Valentine's Day? How about something new that will be sure to put a smile on your significant other's face and will score some points when you leave the toilet seat up later on in the month or don’t clean up after yourself? Here are some suggestions for places to go, overnight accommodations, activities and a romantic meal. Most of these picks are very reasonable and there are a few where it's nice to splurge.
You don't have to travel far for some great getaways. People travel hundreds or even thousands of miles searching for the perfect new adventure but we are all very fortunate to live in the Four Corners region where there are so many diverse places right under our noses. We need only to open our eyes and minds, be creative and look around a little.
AZTEC
Downtown Aztec has some great things to offer. John and Gail Aspromonte have owned Miss Gail's Inn (505-334-3452) since 1992. Miss Gail's is a state registered historic landmark hotel and is a delightful bed and breakfast. There are four guestrooms and four efficiency apartments. "Each room is different," John said.
Hard Backs Books and Art espresso (200 S. Main) has thousands of high-quality used books and an extensive selection of local authors. Where else could you find a copy of History of San Juan County Post Office or Bighorns in the Desert? Nikki and Jim Rubow serve baked goods, display local artisans and hold frequent book signings. I picked up three first edition hardbacks for $4 each.
Rubio's (116 S. Main St.) offers fine Mexican dining. John Winkley, a schoolteacher in Bloomfield, NM, likes spinach enchiladas while his girlfriend Mary Donnelly, a draftsperson, doesn't remember what she ate because she was too busy gazing into Winkley's eyes.
David Albright runs the fascinating UFO Information Center (505-334-9890) where you can buy extraterrestrials in all shapes and sizes and pick up a copy of William Steinman's extensively researched, UFO Crash at Aztec. Just 20 minutes northwest of Aztec is the supposed flying saucer crash site (aztecufo.com) where you can bike or run the alien loop.
The 320-acre Aztec Ruins National Monument is three quarters of a mile north of Highway 516. Walk the trails and see the "great houses," small residential pueblos, tri-wall kivas and earthworks. Many folks don't even know this place exists but the ruins are significant. One wall is longer than a football field. Make sure to duck while going underneath the unique T-shaped doorways that connect rooms directly to the central plaza.
OURAY
Ouray is home to some of the best ice climbing in the world. The Ouray Ice Park (ourayicepark.com) in the Uncompahgre Gorge was opened in 1995 and offers free ice climbing. Getting cold feet here about popping the question is only natural.
The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings (wiesbadenhotsprings.com) was built in 1879. Besides offering accommodations with a European flair, the Weisbaden has a hot springs vapor cave underneath the building, a private outdoor spa and soaking pool. The Spa offers a full range of treatments including massage and La Stone therapy. You and your date will be pampered here.
Dine at the Bon Ton Restaurant in the St. Elmo Hotel (426 Main Street) and feast on Tortellini Carbonara, Scampi Bon Ton and Black Nasty (chocolate fudge pie with graham cracker crust) for dessert.
DURANGO
Durango boasts so many fine places to stay and eat that it is pretty difficult to pick only a few. The Strater Hotel (699 Main Avenue) is right in the heart of the historic district. Hand-screened wallpapers, antique furniture and lots of crystal and lace make for a romantic setting even before you enter one of the 93 Victorian rooms.
"We've had lots of people get married in the lobby and rooms," Renate Widder, rooms revenue manager, said. "We also offer turn-down service, roses and chocolate for special occasions."
Ken and Sue's Place is right across the street for dinner. You and your date can sit by the window and watch the people stroll downtown. "Cilantro Crusted Halibut and Chocolate Molten Cake are some of the favorites here," manager Sara Parish said. "We have an intimate setting with nice booths. The 100-year-old wooden bar here is from Chicago and was also in Silverton for a while. Everybody asks us about it."
The Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (durangotrain.com) offers excursions halfway to Silverton and stops at Cascade for a snack stop all winter long. The setting is peaceful, quiet and spectacular.
MONTICELLO
Monticello is the "Heart of the Colorado Plateau" and gateway to Canyonlands. The Grist Mill Inn (www.gristmillinn.com) produced flour for the community until the mid-1960s but has been restored as a bed and breakfast with seven guestrooms. You can still see the huge mill when you walk into the lobby. There is a sitting room with fireplace on the main level, a television area with VCR on the second floor and a library with lots of classic literary selections on the third floor.
The Utah Ghost Hunters Society held a convention at the Inn in October 2003 to do some investigating. If you think you see some apparitions or strange happenings, you had just better hold on tighter to your lover.
The Joint Trail in Canyonlands (www.nps.gov/cany) is one of my favorites. Walk through a huge rock that has been split. Inside the fracture, high walls tower on both sides and there is not even an arm's length across. Maybe sneak a kiss since it's dark and there is so little sunlight that peeks into the fissure.
PAGOSA SPRINGS
The Pinewood Inn in Pagosa Springs (157 Pagosa Street) is centrally located near the hot springs and the rooms are simple, clean and cozy. There's plenty of coffee and pastry in the morning.
Ron Bubb, Switchback Sporting Goods store owner and his wife, Ann, like JJ's Upstream Restaurant (356 E. Hwy 160). "It’s got a great atmosphere and you can look out at the river," Bubb said. Dinner is served nightly from 4-9 p.m. and there is a Sunday Brunch too.
Traditional activities in Pagosa are the Hot Springs (pagosaspringsresort.com) and skiing at Wolf Creek Ski Area (wolfcreekski.com). There are 17 hot mineral soaking pools at the Springs and 45% of the trails at Wolf Creek are expert or advanced terrain.
SILVERTON
The Inn of the Rockies at the historic Alma House in Silverton was built in 1898. Afternoon tea, feather mattresses and fresh baked goods are all nice touches. Breakfast is served in the waiting room on the first floor and consists of a scrumptious New Orleans style feast. Rich, creamy yogurt mixed with granola and fruit was my favorite.
Silverton Mountain, the area's newest skiing mecca, was ranked #1 in steeps and #1 in powder in the USA by Skiing Magazine. "Skiing together is a bonding experience," co-founder Jenny Ader-Brill said. "We’ve had wedding ceremonies and champagne toasts high on top of Silverton Mountain. Jenny and Aaron Brill used to ski together a lot before they started the ski area.
"We already had it this year but we hold a ‘He said, she said’ ski camp with pros Wendy Fisher and Chris Anthony," Jenny added. "It’s great for couples."
Pasta la Vista (970-387-5352), one of the few restaurants that is open year-round, is one of Jenny’s favorites. "They have nightly specials ranging from calzones to pork tenderloin," she said.
I don’t indulge too often but my girlfriend Cathy and I feasted on delicious tera misu one night in Silverton before running 20 miles the following day.
TELLURIDE
Telluride is a winter Disneyland. The Hotel Telluride (thehoteltelluride.com), opened September 21, 2001, has 54 luxurious rooms and four suites, each with its own climate control. There are comfortable leather couches in the lobby along with a chessboard in case you want some cerebral stimulation. It's only a few blocks to the gondola downtown and there is even a shuttle service in case you have too much equipment and gear in hand.
"We have marble bathrooms and we offer Aveda product for in-room amenities," guest services represenative Jackie Witter said. "There's a spa on premises, outdoor hot tub, steam shower and we put out complimentary apres-ski hors d'oevres."
The gondola offers free public transportation between the Mountain Village and downtown. Use the gondola to access 1,700 acres of skiable terrain or ride it at night to view the city lights and eat at Allred's (970-728-7474,Gondola Station, St. Sophia). Allred’s is perched high along the gondola's route at 10,551 feet. Enjoy Asian Spiced Muscovy Duck or Passion Fruit Smoked Salmon. The views are spectacular and the catch phrase here is, "it’s okay to eat with your eyes full."
Besides downhill skiing, there is ice skating in the Town Park and Mountain Village. Carrie Mock of Telluride Snowmobile Adventures said, "The Dunton Hot Springs tour, lunch and soak is romantic."
RIDGWAY
Stay at the Orvis Hot Springs (orvishotsprings.com) in Ridgway. There are no telephones or televisions in the guestrooms as these accommodations are strictly for relaxation. Guests in the lodge have access to the hot springs 24-hours a day. "There is nude soaking under the stars," Manager Terese Gibson said. "We've had people get engaged, married, conceive children and celebrate anniversaries here."
Sara Ballantyne, professional mountain biker and adventure racer, also works as a massage therapist at Orvis. She and husband Chris Haaland frequent The Adobe Inn (970-626-5939) Mexican restaurant. "They have fabulous margaritas and local cuisine and it is a nice way to end a weekend of backcountry skiing on nearby Red Mountain Pass or cross country skiing out our back door in Ridgway," Ballantyne said.
DOLORES
Cloud Nine (www.2cloud9.com), a rustic log style Bed and Breakfast, sits on 30 acres three miles up on Rd. 31 on the Granath Mesa in Dolores. Proprietors Ray Simanson, Leslie Judice and their dog Hanu, wake up every morning to spectacular sunrises, go to sleep with blazing orange and red sunsets and spot magnificent views of the La Plata Mountains all day long.
The Great Room has a stone fireplace and hign vaulted wooden ceilings supported by thick, exposed beams. "We do lots of weddings here," Simanson said. There's a bar, billiards table, yoga center and gift shop on the premises.
Eat and drink at the Dolores River Brewery (100 South Fourth Street). Jimmy and Wendy Mimiaga love the E.S.B. ("If you have to ask, you’ll never know," Dolores resident, Matt Robinson said.) The Campagna pizza has mounds of pesto, caramelized sweet onions, crimini mushrooms and prosciutto Italian ham. I enjoyed the sausage tortellini soup. "The Brewery has really changed the dynamics in town in a positive way and has been a catalyst for community involvement," Jimmy said. "And what better place to bring a date when there is free music like the Lawn Chair Kings?"
The Anasazi Heritage Center (www.co.blm.gov/ahc) is a museum of the Ancestral Puebloan (or Anasazi) culture and other Native cultures in the Four Corners region. There are permanent exhibits on archaeology, local history, and a research collection of over 3 million artifacts. Learn about the former town of McPhee that is now submerged beneath the reservoir.
MANCOS
The Absolute Bakery and Cafe (292 East 1st St.) in downtown Mancos is open for breakfast and lunch and serves fresh baked muffins, banana bread and homemade granola. Owners Sean McCall and Carly Borelli are proud to serve fair trade coffee. "It's straight from a farmer in Nicaragua," Borelli said. "A former employee, Megan Duty, was there for six months and she set the whole thing up for us." The walls are filled with works from local artists like wood sculptor, David Sipe. You can also buy stunning local photo cards here from David Baker or pick up a copy of "Culinary Colorado".
The Bauer House Bed and Breakfast (bauer-house.com) is included in the Colorado State Register of Historic Properties. "It was built in 1896 by the town founder, George Bauer, who used it as his family's home," hostess Bobbi Black said. "Later when it was a hospital, there were lots of babies delivered there." The Bauer house has received "Best Customer Service" marks three years in a row from the prestigious Arrington's Inn Traveler quarterly magazine.
If it’s a sunny day (and there are plenty of those even in winter) Highway 184 between Mancos and Dolores is one of my favorite stretches for road bicycling. It's not very hilly and you can get great views of Sleeping Ute (www.homestead.com/deewebs/ute). There is a nice, wide breakdown lane and there isn't much traffic.
FARMINGTON
The Adobe Bed and Breakfast and Silver River Spa Retreat (www.silveradobe.com) is tucked away in the southwest corner of Farmington, NM, on the cliffside bank of the San Juan River. "We serve Peach Clafouti French pudding, grind our own oats for oatmeal waffles and have fresh Farmington apples for breakfast," co-owner Diana Ohlson said. "The place is like a nature preserve and we have eagles, birds, foxes, Peregrine falcon, raccoons and deer on the property."
The adobe structure is a mixture of mud, dirt, clay and straw and there are massive wooden timbers. "We feel very happy to offer people a place with traditional northwestern New Mexico architecture," Ohlson added. David Beers, Ohlson's husband, is an anthropologist and between the two of them, they serve as a mini Chamber of Commerce and local historians for the area.
Johnny Carino's (505-325-0081) serves bread and oil with every meal. I've had the lasagna several times and I'm still trying to count the number of layers. Carino's also offers fast and convenient pick-up service. Call ahead, drive your car up to the entrance and a waiter greets you and runs back in to bring out your order.
Mountain bike on the Kinsey Trail (www.roadapplerally.com/trailmap). This trail stays dry all year-round. Access is the end of Foothills Drive.
Valentine's Day is a great occasion to try out some of these places but I recommend that you have more than one weekend away each year. You’ll be in big trouble if you save romantic surprises only for Valentine's Day.
Marc Witkes, Durango writer, is trying a new romantic getaway this month. He's trailrunning, bicycling, swimming and honeymooning with Cathy Tibbetts in Honolulu.